Starting Out.

Incoming posts about...

REDLINE: LOWER IT
and
Sample size ffs!!!

your volume is really low, do you 1 table? It shouldnt take too much time to play 20-30k hands per month. So its hard to tell anything from your graph.

At NL5 people will be going to showdown a lot more often - and youre losing money here. So maybe youre bluffing too much. Start playing tight. Betting strong on your made hands and c-betting good boards.

Let people call you down with inferior kickers, give them bad odds to chase their draws etc and youll make bank. Look at playing premium starting hands and not calling off money with bad hands OOP. You might be calling too loose PF and youre often ending up with the worse kicker and calling down.

buying in for 100bb is good because youre deep enough to be playing properly but not deep enough where youll make mistakes. If youre comfortable buying in for 100bbs just keep doing that, once you get more comfortable and your bankroll is bigger you can start buying in for 200bbs and playing deeper - this might be a good medium between moving from NL5 to NL10.

It will be impossible to get a decent VIP level at NL5.

1) All In EV
All in EV says nothing basically. Because how your run of cards differs from standard distribution is affected by both All in ev, but also what cards are dealt to you and your opponents.

For example you lose all in AA vs 72o= will be shown in AI EV.
You get dealt AA and villain KK, Or you turn a straight with your flop gutshot against villains= Will not be shown in EV.
You can therefore be losing in AI EV, and still 'run hot' or vice versa, so don't pay much attention to it.

2) Showdown Winnings and Non showdown winnings('Red Line)
SD Winnings: [Money won at showdown] minus [money lost at showdown].
Non-SD Winnings: [Money won without showdown]minus[money lost without showdown]

The fun part is that these two don't matter either individually. The only thing that does matter in the long run will be Amount won (global).
Your goal will be to maximise one (SD or Non-SD) line without having the second one too negative.


Buy In
I did buy in with more at NL5 as my BR allowed ($5-$6 to $10), but the transition back to 100bb can be harder, so probably just stick with 100bb and move up to NL10 when you got the BR.
Rakeback
I wouldn't care about this thing a lot at the beginning. Your focus should be to play 2-4 tables and work on your game at first, and you won't get much rakeback. I think Stars recetnly changed the VPP structure so that its more beneficial to micros.


Your game
I can't make any conclusions from just one graph. I even don't know what type of poker you play.
I remember that I had a similar graph at NL5 Fullring where I played 9/7 100% cbet (pot sized) and my redline was booming like yours.

need more hands yo

Thanks for the info guys.

I've been playing full ring 5nlhe. Also, I usually play 4 tables at a time. But like i also said, I only started about halfway through the month. I'll work on just playing a shitton of hands, utilizing the advice here.

On October 30 2010 06:06 vasoline73 wrote: Incoming posts about... REDLINE: LOWER IT and Sample size ffs!!!

I have to admit, I'm very confused as to why anyone would want to lower the red line.

On October 30 2010 12:10 Jadyks wrote: Show nested quote + On October 30 2010 06:06 vasoline73 wrote: Incoming posts about... REDLINE: LOWER IT and Sample size ffs!!! I have to admit, I'm very confused as to why anyone would want to lower the red line.

bcuz your blue line and more importantly your green line are negative. 2200 hands says pretty much nothing about anything but if your graph continues like this i would say youre bluffing way too much in games where ppls biggest mistake is calling too much.