Julie and Mark are brother and sister. They
are traveling together in France on summer
vacation from college. One night they are
staying alone in a cabin near the beach.
They decide that it would be interesting and
fun if they tried making love. At very least
it would be a new experience for each of
them. Julie was already taking birth control
pills, but Mark uses a condom too, just to
be safe. They both enjoy making love, but
they decide not to do it again. They keep
that night as a special secret, which makes
them feel even closer to each other,
and there were no negative feelings invoked in the future.
What do you think about that, was it OK for them
to make love?
Poll: Is what Mark and Julie have done wrong?
(Vote): Yes
(Vote): No
(Vote): Undecided
Please give specific rational reasons if you think if you answered 'yes'
The mean IQ of the population of eight graders in a city is known to be 100. You have selected a random sample of 50 children for a study of educational achievements. The first child tested has IQ of 150. What do you expect the mean IQ to be for the whole sample?
If you read this, answer whatever comes first to your mind. I expect 100% correct answer from poker players of course
Wow so I just started writing my dissertation/Undergrad work and I found out that I was supposed to be writing a blog from the start (In October) and its worth 10% of the mark :O
So here I am, less then 1 month from deadline and 9k words to write, and research to conduct and analyse (although I know the results already pretty much ;o). You can follow it here:
The topic is Standard economic model and Behavioral economics and secondary/primary research will be on Endowment effect: and loss aversion
You know, when a fish values money in his stack more than money on the table. Or when the pain of losing money from your BR is higher than gain from money that you win, no matter how big your bankroll is (your utility curve moves with you as you 'own' the money, its not just diminishing marginal utility - you assign more value to what you own than to what you don't.
Or when people that bought something expensive say its awesome even when its total bullshit -Jason Ho students that didn't complain ?)
I won't play much poker for now, as I want to power through to a decent degree, and to finish everything on time and finally have only poker on my mind and uni wrapped up successfully (well and some volunteering to fill the gap on CV and to feel better about myself ;o))
I will appreciate if you could post any comments to the blog even if you don't read the whole thing, to show that I take it seriously and share the blog with people <3
In December I started using Auto Time sheet and let it run in the background.
The total since December 1 is 618 hours. So I spent 8.4 hours/day average each day doing stuff on my PC!
The breakdown is:
13 days clear time internet browser. A ton of stuff is poker some 60% will be LP/DC/vids/PTR and the rest online shows like Hell's kitchen (I saw all episodes) youtube, futurama, and uni studies.
5.3 days clear time poker (Active in client+HM analysis+Pokerstove/equilab+notepad+excel calcs. Analysis took some 25% of my poker)
1.17 days clear time media player (poker vids I dled are in this, but mostly movies)
1.1 days Skype/MSN (mostly poker)
1.6 days Word/power point for writing uni stuff/studying and writing poker notes.
Bottom line is:
Wasted time much lol?
Of the time I am on my PC I spent just 16% clear time actually playing poker at the tables, where that is supposed to be my primary activity!
DC coaches will tell you 'thinking about poker counts too' but I am more like a poker fan/nerd than an actual player! Furthermore, My time spent on studying for Uni is just some 40 hours in last 76 days, which is really not a lot considering that all exams were online this year and the time includes most of my preparation/writing times...
And yet...I feel constantly stressed and tired, my house gets messy all too often, I forget things and I have been in a state of burnout past several weeks with my ability for social interaction reduced, ability to avoid tilt shattered, and my eyes twitching constantly which apparently is a sign of severe stress :O
A week ago I decided to leave Stars finally and move to Merge. A site with higher (WAY HIGHER) RB than my goldstar bullshit. But I decided to leave $50 on Stars => You know, nostalgia and stuff. But then I found out my debit card doesn't work and I will have to wait a week for a new one in order to be able to deposit. So I was left with $50 @ Stars, just like in the old days and I just made a challenge to do something with that money, and run it up until I get my card back and can deposit money I withdrew to Merge.
My strategy was different from the two degens that decided to have a run at NL50 HU at this site.
-Start at NL2 BSS, 16 table, and $2 HU SnG
-Add some NL10 SSS+NL25 SSS when I'm tired ( never played SSS but a monkey could do that. I have 0 Respect for Pokerpoopy being anything special)
-Once I had around 18 BI I went for NL10 BSS
-Once I was below that, I went for NL5 BSS because SSS sucks balls
-for FPPS I would buy into Sunday 1/4mil Hyperturbo 235FPP sats. With winnings I would unregister, and trade with LP or play HU SnG.
-I'd play also HU SnGs, $2-$10 I played like 40 of these. Its also a good way to trade in your T$ for 100%
-If I didn't stop, I'd keep grinding NL10 and move to NL25 at 20BI
I ran like shit at NL10 6max, some 10BI below ev (that's a lot when you play with 20BI roll) and pretty much broke even there. I also noticed that no matter what stake I play, being attentive is super important, and when I 20table 6max NL10 and watch a movie at the same time my win rate is slashed to almost breaking even.
The same lesson comes from HU SnG, at the micro level its pretty much only about having patience, finding a counter strategy, sticking to it and not snapping. Beating the 100VPIP fish or maniacs is also much harder than in Cash HU, as if you wait for too long to play just non-marginal spots you blind out.I had some epic battles including a 1hr $5 SnG vs a solid micro grinder which went into 100/200 blinds in a regular SnG.
The results:
It was quite hard getting used to 20 tabling when I 4-6 table almost always, but I was freaking obsessed with the re-grinding so I stuck with it. I didn't feel fired up for poker like this in a very long time, and it was really surreal and I didn't shave or go out almost at all, a true obsession
I think I ran out of gas for day 6 when I couldn't focus on 20 tabling 6max, and had to just go for some 4 table crushaments (the spike at the end). Imo if I played 5 days fulltime with 2day no poker weekend it would be sustainable to keep this up and be attentive at the same time, but i was too drained for the 9k hands day 6.
So anyway, I started with $50, and after 6 days my Stars roll is at $250, for a decent NL10 tilt roll. My debit card has arrived and its now time for Merge, where you get a ton of hands on the same regs because of the small player pool and where NL25 HU is present and the fish/reg ratio is higher.
Still it is good to know that if I do go totally busto, there is always a way back for me
Now I am back to LP (sorry for not replying to PMs guys, I was submerged in this thing ;o), and my usual 4tabling routine and stakes, just on a different site, but it sure was fun to start from the bottom once again and to know I can do it
TL = top left, TR = top right, BL = bottom left, BR = bottom right
1:30 TR J3s - You checked the auto fold box, this is a mistake. Even though the majority of the time you should be folding, it is a decent hand to 3 bet versus a btn who opens a wide range. The fact that you had checked the auto fold box indicates that you aren't even considering all your options and may be suffering from some auto piloting.
1:46 TL J6s - Possible resteal opportunity against the btn minraise open
2:18 TL ATo - I probably check this flop, unless villain folds a ton to cbets in 3 bet pots. As played, it might be better to check the turn to induce a bluff on the river, or bet the river ourselves if villain checks turn and river. It's going to be hard to get value on all 3 streets unless villain called the flop with a worse Ax hand.
10:55 TL ATs - I'd check the 764 flop. Flop probably hit villain's range, and there really isn't any turn cards we can barrel.
18:05 TR - You can probably 3 bet smaller here. A raise to $2.25-$2.50, works just as well as a raise to $3.
23:10 BL 98o - Could cbet the JJ6 flop. Would barrel any spade, T or higher on the turn to get villain to fold 6x, 55, 44, random floats, etc
26:50 BL KQo - Not sure if squeezing here is the best play when the initial raiser's stack size is 40bbs. It's an awkward spot if villain decides to shove.
33:56 BR 66 - If villain plays passively on later streets, I think you can c/c the A82 rainbow flop and reevaluate the turn. If villain is aggressive on the turn and river, then c/f is standard but if villain has a very high cbet%, especially on A high flops, you should consider turning your hand into a bluff and check raising the flop.
43:15 TL K2s - I prefer to 3 bet the btn open.
46:14 TL JTo - See above
46:52 TL K7o - I think you can profitably open the btn with this hand with the two tight players in the blinds.
50:44 BR AJs - What was your plan if villain 4 bet?
Cliffs - Be careful of autopiloting. Consider all your options. Resteal more often in the blinds versus steal attempts.
SCS: 1:30 TR J3s - You checked the auto fold box, this is a mistake. Even though the majority of the time you should be folding, it is a decent hand to 3 bet versus a btn who opens a wide range. The fact that you had checked the auto fold box indicates that you aren't even considering all your options and may be suffering from some auto piloting.
ME: You can see a 4/4 guy in BB. Although I would never 3bet bluff this hand against people to my left as one of raisers is super tight PF and other one spewy that knows I 3bet 10% from blinds, that's like superprofitable steal with any 2 if it gets folded to me.
POOR 2: He'd squeeze (3b) PF.
ME: I agree that 3betting small pp in blinds is great and better than calling against regs, but I never thought about re-popping a reg that isolates a fish, isn't it better to just go ahead and play 3way with a fish (and we also get value from the reg at least some of the time postflop)?
SCS: I probably check this flop, unless villain folds a ton to cbets in 3 bet pots. As played, it might be better to check the turn to induce a bluff on the river, or bet the river ourselves if villain checks turn and river. It's going to be hard to get value on all 3 streets unless villain called the flop with a worse Ax hand.
POOR2: Thinks that's fine
ME: Yeah I mean the flop is dry, and he'll fold most of his random cards that he calls pre no?
10:55 TL ATs - I'd check the 764 flop. Flop probably hit villain's range, and there really isn't any turn cards we can barrel.
POOR2: Don't cbet.
River: (I said this is a c/f). A small bet might be interesting if we don't expect villain to ever bluff raise us.
ME:
Flop: Cbet is shit.
River : A lot of his range has pair+draw on turn and I don't expect a fish to bluff. If we bet small and we had more info and knew that he doesn't bluff I think a bet is decent
POOR2 would 3bet here to
1) realise our immediate equity
2) build image
3) not get squeezed by the 63/46/22% 3bet guy
ME: I never thought about it that way, the guy seems nitty, shouldn't I 3bet with a polarised range there?
Guess it will be different when the threat of the maniac cold calling is quite big and I can actually have a fluid range in that spot.
I actually wanted to backshove the 88+ if the maniac squeezes big and call if he makes it small enough
Is that plausible?
Poor2: would be inclined to just fold or 3bet PF because we will get squeezed so often?
ME:I dunno, I see mid PPs as decent value hands with which I can continue with postflop and not just pure setmining hand as I won't have 3 overcards all the time like with small ones, and I will overset 22-66, but unlike the 88 IP I don't feel comfortable to 3bet and get cold called by the maniac in this spot.
Villain folds to 80% 3bets and steals 40% OTB
POOR2: Says we can raise for 'thin' value and just take it down.
ME: Isn't that a bluff then :o? I feel like wasting the hand strenght and not getting called by worse enough, I will be happy to 3b him polarised range actually and rather keep his weak hands in by flatting.
POOR2: We can C/R here and just keep barrelling and get him off AX even, you get paid off when you hit and have more FE
ME: I didn't realise in the hand we have the nut fd for some reason and can actually raise call shove (I saw Kx so I snap acted (boo) assuming its just a normal fd) I agree that we have a monster actually and can just re-pop and make him fold a ton or jut hit.
SCS: 26:50 BL KQo - Not sure if squeezing here is the best play when the initial raiser's stack size is 40bbs. It's an awkward spot if villain decides to shove.
Poor2: Its better than Call
ME: I am not sure, what do I do if the midstack reg shoves?
SCS: If villain plays passively on later streets, I think you can c/c the A82 rainbow flop and reevaluate the turn. If villain is aggressive on the turn and river, then c/f is standard but if villain has a very high cbet%, especially on A high flops, you should consider turning your hand into a bluff and check raising the flop.
POOR2: I'd just cbet as a thin bluff, the board is dry
Me: both got 40VPIP+ and I am oop, and expect them to call any gutter any pp there, and the better is not passive so c/c is out of the question.
Think SCS missread the hand (I was a PF raiser not him, and he has a fish behind him), still do you guys raise?
Yeah I agree, when my plan is to just play passively/weak postflop I should fold PF here (he does 2 barrel a lot), I should look to raise flop when he 3bets wide and cbets every flop
Discussion
[spoiler]
POOR2: Drawy board, BUT we have 2 overs, 2 backdoors and can barrel a lot of turns => Bet
Agreed
Actions to consider:
A1: Just don't click autofold, period.
A2: 3b small pp v regs blinds v steal. Maintain constant 3b frequency by calling more broadways (that can c/r or float more often postflop as tjey will have more outs)
A3: I can value bet very wide and just alter sizing on the river against people that are very unlikely to re-raise us, even if the river is 'scary'
A4: Read the board properly (duh)! There is not excuse when I 4 table to miss read boards!
A5: Don't be a vagina and stick to the basics. Dry board=> Just cbet they can't have much.
A6: C/R More. 5% is a 'little' bit nitty (and I float OOP too much)
A6: 3B Pot: when someone 3bets wide and cbets 100% of flops, thats a good spot to look to flat pre and raise his cbet (and see how he adjusts)
A7: Even on drawy boards, its good to cbet when we can continue on a lot of turn cards and have a lot of bluffing equity IP (E.G. backdoors+overs)
VID Making: Leave space for popups on the side, covering screen sucks (ty Poor2 ;D)
Notes: I should take my time to condense them, and on regs I play often I should generalise (calls wide PF to 3b), or even put 'instructions' to myself based on reads ('3b him wide value range oop).
Questions:
Q1: How often do you 3bet 77+ IP?
Q2: How often do you c/r mono boards against regs that have Kx or Ax on them? (blinds v BU standard ranges) and with what hands?
Q3: Is c/r 3way AXXr a good thing, and when would you do it (I guess we should get a lot of credit and people will bet wide?)
I will be cooking a traditional Czech stuff (Not carp as I can't get a fresh one here, but pork and potato salad: )But will be also doing the Ramsay's stuffed pork and maybe one other. They look awesome and simple at the same time!
Merry Christmas people!
Poll: Who is cooking for your Xmas?
(Vote): Mom/Grandma
(Vote): Family Effort (including me)
(Vote): Wife/GF
(Vote): Me+GF/Wife
(Vote): Just Me. Because I am a macho man. Like Ramsay.
All this. I decided to decline request for HTC HD2 or an iMac, that she wants because 'because it looks cool and makes my friend jealous', while she has a relatively new laptop, 3 phones and ipod touch already.
Please comment on my choice, and post yours or any other suggestions for presents for your better half, most of these are just in my Amazon shopping basket and not yet shipped ;o.
Finepix - its the cutest camera with decent HD vids with sound and Youtube/Facebook easy upload system implemented. Something I can use myself.
I love this design! And she will as well hopefully. Her wish for a long time is Louis Vouitton bag for like $1.2k (she works part time in a supermarket now lol). When I hit 30k BR maybe.MAYYBEEE. Still this bag is awesome.
This is from a German internet store (unsurprisingly). Pretty much a gift for my eyes rather that something she will appreciate (gloves included)
Read great reviews about this thing. Apparently you can spend hundreds of hours and its kinda girly cute?
Gucci perfume. $100 perfume is more acceptable than $1k handbag. And the satisfaction should be more than 10% =====> Higher EV. Like making a small vbet on the river.
WTF? She wants it... Whatever man.
Headphones, why not cool DJ ones? :D
Part 2 of Thin Red line introductory video. This is about 3betting, and determining 3betting frequencies and ranges. For Non-3bet pots, or note on why I need to review all this so badly please see my previous post. Author is Grindcore, a guy that owns with red line with ridiculous winrates and is one of the best video makers when it comes to adjusting to villains.
This part is more useful to SSNL players, everything will be more or less obvious to you better guys, but please read if like me you need revision.
Green - My comments
Blue - Cliffs (added at the bottom). DO NOT criticise cliffs without reading the section please. They are for you lazy guys, and are done by me = they may wrongly interpret the author.
Without further ado:
3BETTING
Two types of ranges:
1)De-Polarised
This is simple, just best hands. If you 3bet 5% de-polarised range you pick aces, kings and keep going down in value until you have 5% of hands
2) Polarised
1 Part is for value (QQ+)
1Part is a bluff (J9o).
Polarised or De-polarised
You should evaluate how often you will get called, and how often you will get 4bet.
A) Polarised
Lets say a theoretical opponent only 4bets or folds, he NEVER calls a 3bet. Lets assume we can't call his 4bet profitably and we can only fold/shove.
We should ask ourselves what is the worst hand that we can shove for value. Against nitty players this will be QQ+.
When you hold a hand like KQo pre-flop and you think its profitable to flat, by 3betting it you are losing that equity and you might as well 3bet with a hand like 72o. Cards do not matter in this example when you 3bet and fold to a 4bet(ignoring blockers), because you will never see a flop anyway.
B) De-polarised
Now imagine you have a calling station. He will flat a lot of 3bets and rarely 4bet. Now KQ is easily re-raised for value. Against this type of opponent we will not have two, but only one range - a value range which is the top of our range.
Position and polarisation
A lot of players will play 4bet/fold out of position and will call in position. When we raise from the blinds the preflop raiser is likely to call with relatively wide range. It will almost always be a good idea to 3bet a de-polarised range out of position.
Naturally, when you are in position (e.g. BU v CO). They will play more 4bet/fold, so we should polarise our range.
However note that this is not always true, e.g. against a fish you should be still 3betting de-polarised range from any position.
Cliff: The more likely villains are calling a 3bet, the more you should de-polarise your range and the more likely they are to 4bet or folding the more it should be polarised
How do you come up with a polarised range?
A lot of people do it by feel. E.G. A guy gets dealt Q5s OTB and faces a raise he will think: 'Should I 3bet him? MMM.... M.... Nah not this time.
Instead of doing it by random or by feel, you should:
1) Have a range that you are 3betting with 100% of the time.
2) Have a range that you are folding 100% of the time.
Note: I can see many of you will disagree here ;o
Why?
Lets say the deck is rigged, and all we get is either A9o preflop and A2o preflop. We are going to 3bet our opponent 50% of the time. The ones doing it by random/by feel would be 3betting 50% of the time with A9o and folding it half the time, and 3bet 50% A2o and fold it 1/2 the time.
But it doesn't really make sense to 3bet A2o one orbit, and then fold A9o the second orbit. A9o is of course a more profitable hand. A more profitable strategy would be to 3bet A9o 100% of the time, and fold A2o 100% of the time.
You can apply this example to different hand types. e.g. K8s vs Q4s. If you want to 3bet a guy 15% of the time, and do it for value 5% of hands (TT+ AQ+) and add 10% bluffs, you shouldn't be randomly bluffing 10% of the time. You should instead Come up with top 10% of your PF folding range the best hands that you are folding are the best hands to be 3bet bluffing.
To know what hands you can 3bet bluff,you have to know what your calling range is (as it determines your folding range).
Lets say PF, CO opens and we are OTB with KXs. We have to ask ourselves : 'What is the weakest KXs that we can call profitably with?' Lets say its KTs, and K9s is not +ev to flat. Now K9s should be a 100% 3bet. Even if we want to bluff the guy with a low frequency, K9s is still a 100% 3bet.
You can then increase your bluffing frequency by simply dropping down in kicker. E.G. if the weakest you 3bet is K8s against one guy, and you encounter another guy that has 5% higher fold to 3bet, you can now drop down to K5s. You still fold K4s 100% of the time, but you are 3betting K5s K6s K7s 100% of the time.
Cliff: Your 3Bet bluffing range should be the top of your range that is not profitable to flat pre-flop
The value part of your polarised 3betting range:
Just ask yourself 'What is the weakest hand we can profitably 5bet shove all in when we get 4bet?
If the answer is QQ+ AK, then that should be your value range.
!If you can't profitably 5bet shove hands like AQs, JJ when you get 4bet, you shouldn't be 3betting them!
You can see this in the low stakes forum a lot, someone 3bets JJ when his 3betting range should have been polarised and then asks what he should do ;o. Or the geniuses 3betting QQ IP against fit/fold turbonits and then asking what to do against a shove
YOUR READS AND EDGE DETERMINE THE RANGE OF HANDS YOU CAN PLAY PROFITABLY
To know the top of your folding range you need to know your calling range.
What hands can you call profitably PF? That depends on the EDGE(skill advantage) you have on the players, and the READS you have on them.
Example:
Scenario A) A very good player is opening 25% hands on the CO.
Scenario B) A very bad player is opening 25% of hands in the CO.
We are OTB. Here we can call a lot wider in scenario B) than in scenario A). Therefore the top of our folding range(and hands we 3bet bluff with in a polarised range) will be a lot different in both scenarios.
For example if we can call the good player with KJs suited only, and KTs is getting thin, then KTs is the top of our folding range and it should be the first hand we start 3bet bluffing.
Against the poor player we can call even with K7s, so now K6s will be the top of our folding range and will be the first hand we 3bet.
This concept is not explained very well in many instructional videos. Just because Galfond can call a 4bet with QTo oop, doesn't mean you can.
Or not to go to extreme, flatting even AJs in position can be unprofitable against a villain that has relatively tight ranges and completely outclasses us.
This is why standard ranges suck, and how reality check and being realistic about your abilities are so important.
Your opponent's fold to 3bet and 4 betting tendencies determine your 3betting frequencies and range.
Example1: Imagine a player that is so tight he even folds pocket aces to a 3bet. He is so afraid of a bad beat, and he has a weak heart so he just doesn't want to risk a heart attack so he just folds AA to a 3bet.
Even a hand that is a clear foldcall pre-flop like 66 or JTs is now more profitable to 3bet because we win the pot 100% of the time.
Example 2: Imagine a guy that NEVER folds to 3bets. We should NEVER 3bet bluff him, just raise with value.
Cliff: To come up with your 3betting range: Lets say you have QXs. Evaluate what is the worst QXs you call call with (lets say QTs), and then start adding Q9s and the higher his fold to 3bet is the worse kickers you add.
100bb Poker: 'Strong' hands are better than 'Pretty' hands when 3betting
You should give higher priority to for example suited kings than suited connectors when 3betting 100bb deep.
Good 3betting hands 100bb deep that should be the start of any 3bet bluffing range are the off suit aces - they have an ace in them so they are all relatively strong hands, but on top of that they have a blocker effect. Just by having the Ace its some 20% less likely that villain holds TT+ AQ+.
Cliffs:
The more likely villains are calling a 3bet, the more you should de-polarise your range and the more likely they are to be 4bet or folding the more it should be polarised
YOUR READS AND EDGE DETERMINE THE RANGE OF HANDS YOU CAN PLAY PROFITABLY
Your 3Bet bluffing range should be the top of your range that is not profitable to flat pre-flop
To come up with your bluff 3betting range: Lets say you have QXs. Evaluate what is the worst QXs you call call with (lets say QTs), and then start adding Q9s and the higher his fold to 3bet is the worse kickers you add.
Engage has become easily one of the top 3 posters when it comes to Low Stakes forum, always coming in and in (what I imagine) is about 30 second churning out ideas and all available options. And we really appreciate it my man!
On November 25 2010 09:17 HeRoS)eNGagE wrote:
so you guys bet the turn with? set and ak?
wow you guy must be hard to play
note on guy '' he suck 3 bet shit and check turn if he doenst have nut and fold if i bet becuase he suck hardcore so i must bet sec pair in his face when he does that easy money''
if you 3 bet him pre with that you MUST have a reason
and that reason should brings you to bet call turn ou check shove or w/e
its 4 handed and the guy raised every hand o n button and cutoff
COMON
+we are oop wich make vilain range wayyyy bigger(preflop and on turn)
i see alot of regs here calling twice with 88 99 KJ AJ AThh etc etc
people are bad
people dont all play like you
if you want to play KQo oop 3 bet pot
play it for real
dont play it like a faggot its wasting money
On November 25 2010 11:03 HeRoS)eNGagE wrote:
im an agressiv player so it change alot of you guys are sick nit
im getting called and shoved over with TERRIBLES hands
nl400 to nl1k
also
sometimes making the -ev play might be the best play in the long run
river is prolly a check, player dependent
My redline was always breakeven and I was always beating NL50 with ease
Now have a look here:
On November 25 2010 11:04 HeRoS)eNGagE wrote:
also im pretty sure u guys have a red line going allll the way down
My reply:
This is so true, and it never was my problem just became one when I came back after a longish break. I think this thread sums up why I am losing, I kept my wide preflop ranges and aggresive image and then didn't value bet thinly and did't keep aggression with the top of my range, started c/calling strong draws too much and folding way to often with the absolute top of my range.
I think I am just generating dead money by playing wide and trying to find reasons to pump money iwith marginal hands into the pot and then fold with tons of equity and a good hand and the top of my range.
And btw redline is correlated to my winnings and always was.
I am a a dead money generating machine pretty much. And Engage helped me realise this (I'd imagine we have a similar image)
REDLINE - by Grindcore at DC
This dude is just awesome and wins huge money just by redline. I think his resources are the best for trying to fix a red line
I was very much following his advice and doing great, but I forgot all those things. This is a short overview of basics. I will post one more post on the rest of his 90 min video. Here are my notes in first 20 minutes:
Losing at non-showdown can be a leak, but doesn't have to be.
Your red and blue lines are from the most part dependent on how YOUR OPPONENTS are playing.
e.g. you cannot have positive redline against a bot that never folds and you beat him with blue line
Or an opponent that folds all hands but aces: It will be hard to beat him with blueline, but your redline will always be positive. It will be a big leak not to win at non-showdown against him or not to raise 100% of hands when you steal his blind.
Microstakes
At micros average opponents rarely fold and play close to the bot that never folds, so it makes sense to be winning by blue line. Very good players should be able to have break even redline at micros, but not having it is not a big leak SSNL
at NL100-NL200 you will encounter a lot of regulars that beat the micros. They learned the tight solid game absent of running big crazy bluffs. There is also a lot less fish at these stakes. In order to beat these stakes it becomes much more important to know how to beat the regulars.
And how do you beat a solid regular that doesn't get out of line and shows down strong hands most of the time? Well, it will be much easier to bluff him.
A lot of the regulars are weak tight (Well Grindore sees them like that ;o), it will be very tough to beat them in showdown, and the optimal strategy will be to beat them in non-showdown.
And if you cry small sample this is his NL400+graph: + Show Spoiler +
How does the redline work? Bluffing
Actually way less important than many people think. People that try to fix their redline are often fixing what isn't broken in the first place and just start to play like aggro monkey and lose even more money. Value betting
You'd think vbetting is good only for your blue line. You vbet more you just get more value right? Thats not true.
Imagine a spot on the river when you have the best hand 75% of the time and you check.
You check: 75% pot gets added to the blue line (EV*POT)
Redline remains stationery.
You make a thin vbet here:
Lets say you get called 50% of the time when you bet, and you win 3/5 and lose 2/5. This might or might not be good for your blue line depending on the betsize etc (compared to a check).
Half the time when you get called, 60% of the pot gets added to your blue line.
But now 50% of the time you don't get called you are adding to your redline.
In this example both your red and green lines will go up when you valuebet thin.
Bluff catching
Again If you are capable of making hero bluff catches you naturally think about your blue line, because you win more at showdown when you catch a bluff.
Lets say you are getting 2:1 on the river, If you have 40% equity you can make a +EV call good for your green line.
60% of the time you lose
40% of the time you win.
If you fold:
Blue line remains stationery
Red line goes down by what you put in the pot already.
If you call:
Your blue line will 60% of the time go down, 40% of the time will go up.
Red line remains stationery (its better for your redline than folding).
So calling here when you have the odds to call is good for your Green and Red lines, but bad for your blue line.
Grindcore never tries to win at non-showdown, but always takes the most profitable action, but it so happens he wins through redline pretty much.
The Standard game
How you play against unknown, average player at the game you are playing.
Is the backbone of your game.
You can deviate from your standard game once you get reads.
Most players don't deviate from their standard game enough. They make basic adjustments like value a bit more against a calling station and bluff less, but many players are very limited.
E.G. a player that folds a lot to cbets. Your adjustment should be to cbet a lot, even 100%. His adjustment should be to stop folding to your cbets. But people don't make these types of adjustments almost at all, and are capable of only really crude and obvious adjustments, and they stay quite close to their standard game.
If you find even a small leak in a regular's standard game at SSNL you can exploit it over and over again because they won't pick up on it. First level where people really start adjusting well is NL600.
At NL200 the very best regulars are capable of adjusting, at NL400 only the better ones and only at NL600+ you can assume that most unknowns are adjusting to you.
Preflop deviation: Opening
You can change your pre-flop ranges without changing your frequencies by adding more 'Strong' hands or 'Pretty' hands (strong hands are hands that make big pairs like AKo, pretty hand don't make pairs byt make a lot of draws like 9Ts)
Lets say you are opening 25% from CO. Of those 20% is pp, broadway any As and you always open them. The last 5% you have a choice - Offsuit aces OR suited connectors (strong/pretty hand).
Against weaker players suited hands go up in value. They are not bluff catching enough and will not pay off your value bets. Semi bluffin >value betting.
Against calling stations that don't fold bluff catchers, semi-bluffing goes down in value, but value betting goes up in value. Strong hands > Pretty hands.
e.g. 3 stations behind you ->fold hands like 79s, but raise hands like A8o
3 Weak regulars behinf you -> 79s is now way better than A8o because semi-bluffing will have much better value than vbetting.
Position
You also have to pay attention to position. If a player that doesn't like folding IP you should play tighter and use more strong hands. It will be hard playing against him with pretty hands OOP (This applies not just to fish but many regulars BVB or CO v BU).
When you are IP it will be much harder for him to adjust and people also play tigther oop.
Who gives you action?
Usually the button and big blind are most likely sources of action for you and people tend to play tighter in the small blind.
Fish are likely to call regardless of position.
You shouldn't have a standard opening range from any position, you should look at players who are likely to give you action and ask yourself ' what should be my opening range in this spot?'. You should have unique VPIP and PFR for every spot that you open because villain composition and their position will be unique most of the time
What is your image
Did you just show down a huge bluff a couple times in lst few orbits?
Probably a good idea to tighten your opening range
Were you card dead and your VPIP is low?
Well now you can get away with much more and you can steal wider range as you will get more gredit.
Stealing
Many times you can you can steal 100% of hands.
If you raise 3X in SB. The big blind has to defend with 40%+ of hands if he isn't, you are instantly showing a profit on your steal even if you open fold every single flop.
Almost no TAGs are defending 40% hands in their BB at SSNL.
As a rule of thumb, if VPIP of villains <20 you can open 100% of hands on button or small blind. (OF course if you do it so often they might pick up on it and start 3betting you light, so pay attention to that).
To be continued . . . (Calling, 3betting, and very detailed discussion on use of specific STATS/how to deviate against specific leaks)
Contact Users: 710 Active, 1 Logged in - Time: 17:33
]
]
]
]
]
]
]
